<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>事不宜迟,直入正题。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>很多表友手动上链时发现,在给手表上发条的时候,表冠会有回弹的现象。为什么会出现这种情况?这与机芯内部一个渺小但十分重要的组件有关:棘爪
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>棘爪是什么?
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>止逆棘爪是手表上的发条档
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>棘爪的作用是什么?
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>1.棘爪的作用是使得齿轮在运动时形成单方向运作,当齿轮顺时针运动时,棘爪会滑过并咬住齿轮,使得齿轮不能往反方向运作。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>2.当手表棘爪坏了,是上不了发条的,会一边上发条一边释放。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>3.手表上发条的时候有回弹力是正常现象,它的回弹力源自于棘爪旁边的弹簧,弹簧的作用是推动棘爪。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>为什么手表上发条时会回弹?
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>手表上链时有一个回弹的现象。主要是释放了发条的力,发条绷得太紧,会破坏手表传送的力度,让它释放一点点。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>至于每次回弹多少,跟弹簧的形状、机芯是有关系的。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>而手表上满要多少圈?其实,真的不用纠结这些,带上能走就好啦~手动上链如果说上满的话要多久,通常是30-40圈。自动表的话要看每一个自动表的上链效率。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>一般情况下,手表从上紧发条到36小时这段时间,它的力矩输出是平稳的,此时走时也比较精准,误差小。而超过36小时以后,发条力矩会急骤下降,走时误差增大。为了确保手表每天都走时精准,手动上链最好保持每天上链、动力储存充足。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>另外,在给手动机械表上发条的过程中,手指尽量不要脱离表冠,可以起到减速的作用,因为每次给手表上发条时就会出现上面所提到的回弹,而每次的回弹都会增加上链齿轮相碰,使得齿尖容易折断。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>自动上链腕表除了动力来源与手动上链不同;结构上也有所不同,自动表的机芯中多了自动陀,发条也是主、副两段焊接在一起的,主发条储存的动能会传递到副发条,使副发条收缩滑动进而释放出能量。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>比起手动上链,虽然自动上链的发条有过载保护装置。但如果你想为了省事狂甩手表来加速上链,机芯可能在短时间内承受过大的力量,而使得发条、齿轮和轴心加速磨损甚至断裂。因此,手表停走后,你可以先手动给手表上链使其恢复运行后,再自动上链让手表充满能量。
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>手动机械表上发条的时候上到拧不动还是上到阻力有点大的时候?
<p style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247);”>自动手表有防过链装置可以一直上,手动的手表最好上到有加大阻力时,不要上到完全不能的状态,,因为这样会增加发条断裂的风险。
<p style="margin: 0px 0px 1.25rem; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.7; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>所以说,自动机械表给了人们一种错误的安全感。自动表并不完美,它相较于手动上链还是有不足的。
<p style="margin: 0px 0px 1.25rem; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.7; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>第一,手动上链比自动上链的机芯更薄。不添加自动上链功能的手动机芯,就可以留给更多的表壳空间添加多功能组件。虽然现在有了珍珠陀自动上链、环形自动陀上链设计以降低自动表的厚度,但其依旧面临上链效率低、易损坏的风险。
<p style="margin: 0px 0px 1.25rem; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.7; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>第二,手动上链比自动上链更耐用。对于手表来讲,结构越复杂就越容易坏。
<p style="margin: 0px 0px 1.25rem; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.7; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>第三,手动上链比自动上链互动性高。每天手动给手表上链是一种享受。
<p style="margin: 0px 0px 1.25rem; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.7; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>第四,手动上链的机芯有更多的空间去展示。而自动上链的机芯由于需要添加巨大的自动陀,遮挡近一半的机芯,所以不少人会选择更“开阔”的手动上链机芯
<p style="margin: 0px 0px 1.25rem; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.7; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>总体来说,自动表凭借自动上链、精湛的工艺小胜一筹。若你足够幸运拥有一块带背透的自动表,小巧的摆陀安静而高效的转动将是百看不厌的美丽奇观。
<p style="margin: 0px 0px 1.25rem; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.7; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>而自动和手动上链的机械表哪个更好?其实没有恒定的答案,因为每个人的佩戴习惯和需求点完全不用。
<p style="margin: 0px 0px 1.25rem; padding: 0px; border: 0px; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.7; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; vertical-align: baseline; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>最后,以上了解了自动上链和手动上链腕表区别、优缺点。小编建议自动机械表尽量少使用手动上条,因为手动上条需要把柄带动自动部件一起转动,自动部件十分容易磨损,所有可能会是手表增加不必要的维护成本。
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