看不出来吧！Daytona 116508变身七零年代老味道

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>Artisans de Genève在瑞士手表改装界里面的名气响亮，对他们家改表的主要印象就是能把劳力士改成镂空造型，让手表涌现出原厂作品比较不会感受到的复杂立体感，不过镂空并不是Artisans de Genève唯一拿手的工艺，他们也是可以随着客户的要求，让一般的劳力士手表变得很不一样——就算要把现代手表改得像是古董老表也难不倒他们。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>▲Source：artisansdegeneve

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>近期Artisans de Genève收到客户委托，想将他手上一只劳力士Daytona 116508改成富有1970年代的韵味，虽然我们无从得知客户是想要回味他年轻时代的手表收藏或着只是纯粹对当时的美学风格感到惊艳，但总之1970年代算一算距今也有40几年了，问题是116508明明就是现代的劳力士手表，要怎么把新表变旧呢？而且喜欢复古味道的话，怎么不去拍卖会上标一只古董表更快，不过有时收藏家的想法我们不见得能理解，总之他有手表有预算，想怎么改其实都可以。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>▲有客户委托Artisans de Genève将自己手上的Daytona 116508（原本为图右）改成具有1970年代的风格，同时他还指明手表要融入他爱的深蓝色，最终品牌打造出这款”The Honey Blue Challenge”。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>接下委托的Artisans de Genève于是著手展开手表改造，客户除了希望让手表看起来有1970年代的老表味道，他也指明了希望手表可以融入他喜欢的深蓝色（原本的116508有很多种颜色面盘，就是没有蓝色）。Artisans de Genève先从表壳调整做起，首先在那个时代的Daytona还没有表冠护肩的设计，因此品牌断然决定移除手表的护肩装置，另外表圈也经过重新设计，除了填上蓝色之外，测速计刻度也同样改成比较早期的样式，例如原本刻度上拥有的三角形就被设计，改以更简单俐落的点状与线条表现。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>▲表冠旁边的护肩被移除、表圈则是换成填覆蓝色颜料的设计。Source：artisansdegeneve

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>为了强化手表的复古感，Artisans de Genève也将手表的镜面改装成Box镜面，让它浮凸于表圈上，从侧面一点的角度可以明显看到改装后的116508与原本样子的差异。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>▲表镜改成Box，更有早期手表的复古况味。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>再来就是这次改装的重头戏——面盘，第一眼会立刻察觉面盘被改成深蓝色太阳纹面盘搭配应该是手表原本的黄金色小表盘，Artisans de Genève还一并把小表盘内的指针改成蓝色用以呼应面盘颜色。如果你以为品牌只是改改面盘颜色就交差那就有点小看他们了，仔细看面盘会发现包括时标、指针造型以及小表盘造型全部被改过一轮，这里的修改并不是品牌随兴乱改，，同样也是参照了1970年代手表的设计精髓，因此前面提到的面盘元素被修改后有个共通点就是变得更简约和纤细，也因此整只表给人的视觉印象也变得优雅起来。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>▲面盘除了换上深蓝色太阳纹，其上的细节如时标、指针与小表盘造型都同步修改，散发更到底的古董表味。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>请Artisans de Genève改表还有个好处就在于表背终于能解放，不然原厂都把机芯封在实底盖下，想看机芯并不容易，这款被昵称为”The Honey Blue Challenge ”的改表采用透明底盖露出下方的4130，品牌看来有额外帮机芯加装一些金色（或金质）螺丝，就连自动盘也改成疑似是K金的材质，再配上品牌特地在底盖边缘加上的粒纹与金雕装饰，让手表散发有别原本的奢华尊贵感，翻到表背看起来更赏心悦目了。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>▲表带链节与表耳表面皆经过重新抛光，改以大范围的缎面打磨揣摩早期手表的风格。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>这只表的主人看来很怀念早期的手表风格，所以他其实也还要求Artisans de Genève帮他多做一条皮表带可以让他跟K金链带换着戴，于是品牌也从善如流以纯手工打造出了一条深蓝色鳄鱼皮表带来搭配这款Honey Blue Daytona；补充提到，手表原本的K金链带是两边链节缎面打磨加上中间的抛光，Artisans de Genève同样效法古董表重新抛磨了整条链带，让它的链节展现相同的打磨效果（包括表耳表面也重新加上缎面打磨）。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>▲改成透明底盖后，品牌连自动盘也整个换掉，以貌似K金材质自动盘赋予手表优雅高级感。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>经过种种调整后，一只看起来像古董表的现代Daytona就这样诞生了，如今它就拥有现代表般的优异品质，但外型却多了一种过往只有经过岁月淬炼才有的古典优雅型格，对表主来说是个两全其美的解决办法，而从这款表的案例中也突显了Artisans de Genève游走于复古与前卫的多元改装风格，下次再提到这个改表品牌，可别再误以为他们只会镂空手表而已，事实上他们还满多才多艺的。

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>

<p style="box-sizing: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; font-size: 18px; line-height: 1.8; text-rendering: optimizelegibility; font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, “Segoe UI”, Roboto, “Microsoft JhengHei”, “Helvetica Neue”, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; letter-spacing: 0.02em; word-break: normal; text-size-adjust: 100%; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);”>▲应客户要求，Artisans de Genève还特别多做了一条深蓝色鳄鱼皮表带可供替换。